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My 1993 Chevy K1500 5.7L V8 pickup failed the emissions / smog test. Failed on HC hydrocarbons (HC ppm).......?
Here is my situation:
1993 Chevy K1500 5.7L V8 4x4 pickup, with 394,000km/ 244,000 miles. Original engine.
Engine does not burn oil. Exhaust & system is good (except for i don't know the condition of the catalytic converter) Oxygen sensor was changed 1 month ago, (plugs and distributor prob isn't a bad idea to change), Air Filter & oil are clean/new.
2 Years ago my truck passed but barely: with the HC ppm reading 73 with a limit of 73.
This time it read 205. But the truck has been running off, not ride at idle sometimes sort of studdering but no problems starting & what not.
Yesterday It read: At full operating speed it read 205 & the limit was 73 for the HC pppm
for curb idle the limit is 200 & it read 189.
Aside from Vacuum leak & changing plugs & wires & distributor or the cat.
What else is there that could cause it to fail or that is common to make them fail on this year Chevy truck.
I'd check all the vac lines, vac hoses, air filter, clean the connectors where the spark-plug wires connect to and perform a basic tune up change the plugs and wires, and making sure the fuel system has be treated , plus the o2 sensors are working properly etc.
If the cat was bad that could cause the high reading , plus it could throw off the engines compression and you'd not it in how the vehicle drives , runs and in your gas mileage, also you'd notice an change in the exhaust fumes etc.
There are different signs of a bad cat converter one could be that you notice a hole or leak another could be the noise it makes when you tap it etc.
Myself what I prefer is to be sure that a full tune up and oil change is performed just before the day of the smog-emissions test.Checking all fluid levels, belts, pulley's, and checking things like the PCV valve, changing the fuel filter, checking, cleaning the vehicles electrical contacts from the battery,starter, alternator, power junctions, engine block posts, and all grounds with a wire brush, sandpaper, a file etc.
What is also important is a fully tightened gas cap and the gas cap that has a good seal,plus having at least a half tank of fuel in the tank/ with no more then 3/4's of a tank of gas, when it's emission-smog tested.Always try and pre-book the emissions-smog test, then drive it on the hwy for a good 15-20 mins just before the test time.This way the engine, fuel system, exhaust should be cleaner and the engine will be warm or normal operating temperatures when it's being tested and the test results are greatly affected by such basic factors.
Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way besides the tune up etc I'd probably change the cat converter using either a brand new universal replacement cat converter or by going to a auto wreckers etc and picking up a cheap used replacement part and if you can't change it yourself find a shop that will do the labour for a fair price.Personally I've used many used cat converters from the wrecking yards and found them to be fair priced, some charge from 35 or 60 bucks and some might try to charge you even more especially if the cat is expensive or they pull the part for you, but if I pulled one I payed as little as 10 bucks and no more then 35.Some exhaust shops etc might charge anywhere from 20-60 bucks or so to install the new or used one you supply them with.
I've seen cat converters brand new go for quite cheap so check around and some shops might offer you a universal for 120-150 with a full warranty and that's fully installed labour and all.
